8:40am local time
Next Thursday, David time
Dhaka, Bangladesh
After a wonderful flight on Emirates, (save that it was overnight and my biological clock was engaged in a knife fight with my surroundings), I deboarded the plane into the Dhaka airport. In typical David fashion, I had lost all of my contact information somewhere along the way.
Keeping a level head, I immediately started to sweat profusely while rummaging through my carry-on. Remaining absolutely calm, I descended into fight or flight mode and began some tactical problem solving pacing. My survival instincts took over and I engaged in what I like to call “walk in a straight line until something happens.” This method has served me well in the past and historically has brought many would-be explorers to inglorious and untimely ends.
Alas, this was not to be my fate. As I descended from the stairs to the baggage claim, full of steely-eyed resolve and unflappable courage, I saw a sign. This one said “David Bayer” and was held by a bobbing and smiling old man. I seized the opportunity and walked boldly to the man and proclaimed loudly, “I’m David Bayer!” I’m not sure if it was my overwhelming confidence or the fact that some sweaty maniac was yelling at him, but he swiftly hustled me through customs and stuffed me into a car. I don’t who this David Bayer is, but he is still to this day stuck at the airport in Dhaka, waiting on a bobbing and smiling old man. I apologize David Bayer.
The car into which I was so tidily and unceremoniously bundled is where I met who was to be my best friend in Bangladesh: Shokrana Mohamed*. Miracles of all miracles, I had found my contact. We became fast friends as we plummetted wildly through the streets of Dhaka. During our plummet, he began educating me about Dhaka. His English wasn’t perfect**, but I didn’t want to embarrass him with my masterful grasp of Bengali. I learned that he was the proprietor of a chain of restaurants around Dhaka called “La Bamba.”
After our drive, we arrived at his private men’s club. It is called the Uttara Club. I can’t really think of a Western facsimile for comparison, so I’ll just try to describe it. It was a walled off compound in the Uttara district of Bangladesh with the following amenities:
- 2 restaurants (one smoking, one non-smoking)
- 2 bars (again, one smoking, one non-smoking)
- hotel style accomodations with around 15-20 rooms
- tennis courts
- two game rooms (one for cards, the other for other sorts of gambling)
- a swimming pool
- health club
- children’s center
- library
It has everything a stylish man could ever want. Add in some pool tables and laser tag and I’m applying for Bengali citizenship. After the tour of the club I enjoyed a private (and large and foreign) breakfast with Shokrana in my room. At this point, I was completely exhausted. Shokrana had some business to attend to about town, so I graciously took the opportunity to lapse into a coma.
Fast forward three hours. Someone is gently rapping at my chamber door. ‘Tis the wind, quoth I, and nothing more. In reality, it was Shokrana coming to collect me for lunch. We courageously braved the streets of Dhaka once again to travel to his home to enjoy the midday meal with his family at his house.
I was introduced to what is considered a typical lunch. It consisted of dal bhat, a fish dish, curry chicken, fried rice, and steamed vegetables. You can infer from this “typical” meal that your “typical” Bengali is nine feet tall and runs eighty miles a day to require all of that nourishment. Not being particularly large nor a freakishly active, I heroically attempted to do as much damage as possible. The food was delicious, but as you’ll remember, I had eaten a not insignificant breakfast just hours before.
During the course of the meal, I was introduced to Shokrana’s family. The household consisted of Shokrana’s father, wife, sister in law, and several house-staff. Shokrana’s family was fascinating. His father was a retired general who was forced to move to Bangladesh as a result of partition. He was also an author and biographer. His late wife was herself an author.
After lunch, I squelched myself back into the car and retired to the club. I slept for three more hours until I was summoned to the bar for beers and what I naively assumed was to be my evening meal (fish sticks). We were joined by an AP reporter with a charming Indian/ British accent. We spent the next several hours slowly getting sloshed on Foster’s beer and vodka lemons. Well, I was sloshed. My companions seemed unaffected. Shows what you get for drinking with giants. Afterward, we headed to one of Shokrana’s restaurants. I should have known that I wasn’t going to get off so easily with the fish sticks. I again gorged myself on the local cuisine (editor’s note: the food was all delicious, I only complain because I was fed eleventy times a day***) which was some sort of delicious barbecue served with naan (local, flat bread - Think pita, only deliciouser).
Stuffed to the gills and sufficiently buzzed. Shokrana and I headed to the airport to pick up my three companions: Joe, Ryan, and Dave (the “beta” David of the trip, as I was obviously the “alpha” David).
Thus ends my remarkably dull account of what was actually a pretty exciting time for me. Stay tuned for Part III of the Nepal blog, wherein I actually arrive in Nepal, of all places.
* Sadly, Shokrana passed away only a few weeks after our visit. I wish I could have gotten to know him better.
** Actually, his English was perfect, I just have horrible ears and hearing.
***During this fifth meal of the day, Shokrana fixed me with a flat stare and said, “You Americans sure don’t each much,” and then did a wind sprint to Malaysia and back.
